Nafplio
Venetian City By the Sea
October 14
Crossing to the Peloponnesus
A Venetian city in Greece, you ask? Yes, this city was once part of the powerful Republic of Venice, but I’ll talk more about that later.
For now, I am heading to Nafplio from Delphi. There is no direct way to get there from here. Either I go east to Thiva (ancient Thebes), head south toward Athens, then turn west to the Peloponnesus. Or, I can drive west along the Gulf of Corinth, cross to the Peloponnesus over the newly built Rio-Antirio bridge near Patra, then head east along the water to Nafplio. Six of one, half a dozen of the other—let’s see this famous bridge.
The Rio-Antirio bridge is awesome—a work of modern, architectural art. A bridge at this location was proposed over 100 years ago, but it was not until 2004 that the cable-stayed span was completed.
The Rio-Anitrio bridge, otherwise known as the Charilaos Trikoupis Bridge, was completed just a few months ago. The first to cross the bridge were torchbearers for the 2004 summer olympic games.
I can see the bridge, but which way should I go? I just came from Itea, so I guess I should head to Athens, the first city listed here.
The Charilaos Trikoupis Bridge rises high above the Gulf of Corinth and crosses it at the Strait of Rion.
Still mindful of my cash flow problem, I was shocked at the €10.90 toll to cross (that’s about $15!). The bridge crosses the Strait of Rion, the western entry to the Gulf of Corinth.
Driving over the Charilaos Trikoupis Bridge, linking Rio on the Peloponnese to Antirio on the Greek mainland.
The cables appear to be radiating in all directions when you're approaching the pylons.
Looking back on the Charilaos Trikoupis Bridge from the toll plaza on the Peloponnese.
Now I turn east along the southern coast of the Gulf of Corinth. The road to Corinth is mostly two-lane, but people drive like it’s a four-lane highway. It is customary to ride in the shoulder of the road so faster drivers can pass.
Arriving in Nafplio
I was a little concerned about finding my hotel in Nafplio. It’s in the old part of town, where it’s not really prudent or possible to drive. After a detour, I arrived in Nafplio and followed the signs to the old town and parked beside a large town square.
The view from my hotel in Nafplio.
I walked into the old section and, with some difficulty, found the Hotel Byron. The hotel is named for Lord Byron, the 19th-century Romantic poet from Britain whose most famous work is Don Juan. He is well regarded in Greece for his participation in the War of Independence from the Turks—there is a monument to him in Nafplio. He traveled throughout Greece, looking for love and adventure. Besides a hotel in Nafplio, he has an asteroid named for him (thought I’d bring us back to astronomy for a moment).
I showered and set out to explore the town. Along the way, I spotted the couple I’d met in Meteora on the street, looking at their guidebook. “Are you lost?” I asked, as I snuck up on them.
Soon I found a place to eat, but I was the only person in the place. It came recommended from my Lonely Planet guide, so I knew it must be okay, but it was odd to be the only one in the restaurant. I had the pork stew, which was yummy. After dinner, I tracked down the Italian homemade gelato parlor which also came highly recommended by my guidebook. It is divine.
I strolled around town while I ate my ice cream, then turned in early. Tomorrow I will explore the town and the surrounding fortresses.
October 15
History of Nafplio
As I mentioned before, Nafplio was once part of the Most Serene Republic of Venice (yes, that was its official name). At their apex, they held land in Italy, down the Croatian coast, in Greece and Turkey, and occupied the island of Cyprus. They funded explorers like Marco Polo and backed the Crusades, earning favors around Europe.
Nafplio was occupied by the Byzantines, then the French, and in 1377 the Venetians arrived but were soon ousted by the Ottomans. The Venetians returned in 1685 and fortified the city, but this was the last gasp of the Venetian empire. In a little over 100 years, the 1,100-year empire would be divvied up between Napoleon, the Austrians, and the Turks.
Today, the city resembles a quaint, Italian town with pastel houses and white-washed alleyways. During the Greek War of Independence, the city was under siege for an entire year. Its fortifications are so strong, it was designated the first capital of Greece after independence from the Turks in 1829. After the first head of state of independent Greece, Ioannis Kapodistrias, was assassinated here, his successor moved the capital to Athens in 1834.
Akronafplia Fortress
I woke up this morning and looked at my watch. It said 10.15, but it was still pretty dark outside. Was it going to be a rainy day? A ship arrived over night, its lighted masts towered over the terracotta roofs. I got up, showered, and prepared to hit the town. Then, I looked at my watch again. Turns out I was looking at the date and it was only 8:30 in the morning. Damn! Well, I was awake now, so I may as well venture out.
The Nafplio skyline with a newly arrived ship in its harbor. This part of the city dates back to the Venetian days, although there is a building in town that dates to the 12th century.
I walked up to the lower fort today called the Akronafplia Fortress. It sits on a ridge that shelters the town from the south. In fact, Nafplio is one of the best harbor cities in the world, which is why it was a prized military target. The town faces north toward a small harbor that opens up to the Argolic Gulf to the south. The ridges and mountains are placed perfectly to watch the water to the south and the land to the east and north.
The Akronafplia Fortress rests on the ridge that hugs the city—it was the acropolis of Nafplio. The earliest fortifications date from the 2nd century BC, but most of the remaining structures were built by the Venetians in the 15th century. To the south is the beach and gulf, and to the north is the town.
Someone is swimming in the blue waters of the gulf.
Aravanitia Beach as seen from the cactus-covered Akronafplia Fortress.
A lookout to the Argolic Gulf from the south side of Akronafplia Fortress.
Much of the ridge is covered in prickly pear cacti and, as I walked the length of the ridge, I discovered that they are covered with snails.
A snail clings to a prickly pear, or opuntia, cactus, which cover the cliffs of a fortress in Greece.
Snail on a prickly pear, or opuntia, cactus fruit.
Because this is a relatively recent construction, there are no limitations to where you can explore. I walked into rooms, through tunnels, and onto ramparts without ropes or restriction. And, I was completely alone, not a soul around.
Entrance to the Akronafplia Fortress. Above the entryway is the Venetian, winged lion of St. Mark.
An entrance to the upper part of Akronafplia Fortress. The winged lion of St. Mark decorates the entry, which is completely open and unguarded by anyone other than the lion.
Inside the Akronafplia Fortress ramparts. The earliest walls of the fortress date from the Bronze Age, but most of the fort was built by the Venetians in the 1400s and later.
Exploring the town
From here, the city appears as a clustering of continuous terracotta. I returned to town and walked around awhile before lunch. Frankly, the town isn’t all that big, something I would come to realize by the end of the day.
The skyline of Nafplio.
It is said that Nafplio is one of the most beautiful cities in Greece, and I can see why. Quaint, narrow streets and alleyways lined with pastel houses and couples strolling. And the quintessential cat around each corner.
One of the many beautiful streets in Nafplio.
Cats are ever present in Greece, here's one lounging on the street in Nafplio.
A cat poses in a Nafplio alley.
Some flowers in the town of Nafplio.
These multicolored flowers are all over Greece.
I ate lunch at a restaurant called Mezedopoleio O Noulis and, in typical fashion, I was the only one there—tourist season is certainly coming to an end. When I walk into a restaurant, the chef’s break is over.
Palamidi Fortress
After lunch, I climbed the steps to the Palamidi Fortress, the state-of-the-art military compound built in the 1710s.
Local lore says there are 999 steps to the top. I did not count, but I’d say that’s about right. The stairs begin in town and continue to the top of the 700-foot mountain. I hoofed it up there—it’s really not that difficult. Stopped along the way to take in the view, and catch my breath.
Looking over Nafplio from the Palamidi Fortress.
The fortress was the last major fort built by the Venetians before their empire collapsed. Palamidi and Akronafplia Fortresses were used as political prisons into the 20th century.
An interior yard at the Palamidi Fortress, home to the garrison commander.
A sentry post on top of the Palamidi Fortress. From this vantage point, the island Bourtzi Fortress is visible along with the Nafplio waterfront pier.
I sat on a wall overlooking Nafplio for some time. I wrote in my journal and people-watched. It was a cool, breezy day and there was one group of Russian teenagers touring the place—an invasion of another kind. After being chased from my solitude, I explored the fort, creeping through tiny crawl spaces that open up into stone-walled, windowless prison cells. I found a large, underground room down some steps, but it was kind of dark and spooky; the floor was muddy with a large pool of stagnant water and there was only one small window near the ceiling.
Evening in town
Soon I descended the 1,000 steps back to town and explored the streets. Around 4 o’clock, I heard chanting and prayers from one of the churches in town and headed over to see what was happening.
A Greek Orthodox priest heading to church with his family.
An orthodox priest being interviewed for television. What’s going on today? There was a crowd to get into the church and men collecting money outside the doors. I later learned that the head of a saint had arrived in town and was being shown at the church.
I continued to walk around town. To the main square, down to the pier, and around the narrow alleyways. I settled on a place for dinner and asked the waiter what was happening at the church this afternoon. He then asked another waiter who said that the head of a saint had arrived in town and was on display in the church.
Stray dogs are ubiquitous in Greece and, after roaming around town for a day or two, I've gotten to recognize Nafplio's regulars. Here, two of them are playing in the town's main square.
A black cat sits in a white-washed alley.
Night fell and I snapped a few more pictures in this picturesque town.
Plateia Syndagmatos, or Constitution Square, is the town plaza, named at a time when Nafplio was the capitol of the newly independent Greece.
The illuminated Palamidi Fortress on top of the mountain, along with the Akronafplia Fortress below.
The island fortress Bourtzi at night. The diminutive island fort was built in 1471 and used as a hotel between 1930 and 1970.
One of the many stray dogs in Nafplio waiting beside a taverna for a hand-out.
Honestly, I was a little bored this evening. Maybe I’ve seen all that Nafplio has to offer—maybe I’m lonely and desire a quality conversation, something I’ve not had since leaving Athens days ago. I thought about going to a bar, but decided against it. I went to bed early and looked forward to getting on the road tomorrow morning.
October 16
The clouds finally cleared this morning, motivating me to run around town and take some photos before checking out of my hotel. I visited a bakery and grabbed a fresh apple turnover and some juice and took some last shots of this lovely town.
The view from my hotel in Nafplio.
Fort Bourtzi in the morning from one of the streets overlooking the town.
A new house in Nafplio.
A schooner leaving Nafplio.
I packed my things and lugged them back to the car, which was parked outside the old town. The birds had not been kind to me over the past day—the car was covered in poop. As I drove out of town I stopped to get gas, another €35, and tried to remove the poop from the windows. The attendant was telling me I needed hot water, but we did our best.
Nafplio was a wonderful town, unlike anything I’ve ever seen. I have yet to visit Italy, but this town is probably the closest I’ve come to its charm. The town’s quaint streets and alleys remind me of a quieter existence, where life’s pace is slower. I wish I had someone here to share it with.
Today, I’m off to Epidavros to see the best preserved ancient theater in the world, and then I’m heading for the Temple of Poseidon, where I will spend my last night in Greece.