Day 4
Vyšehrad, the High Castle
Vyšehrad, the upper castle
Vyšehrad is Prague’s spiritual birthplace. Perched on a small, craggy hill south of the city, it was the first settlement in the area. It’s where kings are crowned, and the revered are buried. We trekked south along the river to this lovely little castle, passing some landmarks along the way.
A nice view of the Prague Castle from across the Vltava.
Frank Gehry's dancing building, nicknamed the 'Fred and Ginger building,' was completed in 1996 and added a progressive feel to Prague's Art Nouveau section.
An attention-grabbing block of Art Nouveau buildings on the west bank of the Vltava River.
The walls that protect the Vyšehrad now provide overlooks to the streets below and the city to the north. It’s a pretty place to stroll around. The Church of Saints Peter and Paul is Gothic on the outside, but inside its frescos are, amazingly, Art Nouveau. It’s a nice change from the whitewashed Gothic cathedrals or the overdecorated Rococo churches.
The church’s cemetery is a wonderful mix of elaborate tombstones and artistically designed mausoleums. Many of Bohemia’s musicians, writers, artists, and sculptors rest here.
Vyšehrad's Church of Saints Peter and Paul spires peek above the treeline.
Inside Vyšehrad's Church of Saints Peter and Paul, the sublime, Art Nouveau interior triumphs over its ordinary Gothic facade.
Colorful, Art Nouveau interior of the church at the Vyšehrad.
Bedřich Smetana's grave at Vyšehrad. Many of Bohemia's most famous are buried here, including the most revered of Czech composers whose grave is pictured. The old style of dates lists his birth as March 2, 1824, and his death as May 12, 1884, 124 years ago to the day. His most famous piece is Má Vlast ('My Country'), which includes the symphonic poem Vltava (The Moldau). He also wrote The Bartered Bride, one of many operas he composed.
Antonín Dvořák's grave at the Vyšehrad cemetery. Influenced by Smetana, Dvořák wrote the New World Symphony (when he was living in New York between 1915-18), the Slavonic Dances, and the Carnival Overture.
Vyšehrad's cemetery and church.
A panorama from the Vysehrad Castle in Prague.
A last walk…
We headed back into town and walked to a few more landmarks. The Estates Theater is the only theater in the world left standing where Mozart performed—Don Giovanni premiered here in 1787. We also walked over to Wenceslas Square, the Times Square of Prague, where Communism was declared dead by Vaclav Havel in 1989.
The Emmaus Monastery lies in the Nove Mestro, or new town.
David Černý's Horse hangs from a domed ceiling in the Lucerna Passage, an elegant arcade off Wenceslas Square. It's a tongue-in-cheek response to the giant equestrian statue of St. Wenceslas near here.
The side of the Estates Theater in Prague. This is the only theater left standing where Mozart performed. Its interior was also used in the film Amadeus.
Later, Suzanne and I walked over to the John Lennon Wall, a long wall filled with graffiti. When Lennon was murdered in 1980, people began painting tributes to him on this wall. Over time, it became an outlet for the peaceful, anti-Soviet movement.
Our little, white car remains parked on this street. Is it still capable of moving?
Sunset from the Rudolfinum looking toward Prague Castle.
The John Lennon wall was a statement of revolution back when the Iron Curtain was up. Today, it's a graffiti free-for-all.
The bell tower and dome of the St. Nicholas Church in Malá Strana looking up Mostecká Street.
I leave Prague with a deep respect for the culture and history of Bohemia. Prague does not have the feel of a capital city. Rather, there’s an deep-rooted expression of pride on display, and you will find this down every cobblestone street. The mythology of Prague and Bohemia are on full display here, with a thousand years of history seen in its statues and war memorials. It’s quirky and quaint, and supports a vibrant contemporary art scene, adding a modern texture to this venerable kingdom.