Montmartre
Today we head for the hills. Montmartre is the hilltop district on the Right Bank capped by the Sacré Cœur basilica. Back in the day, wheat was grown here and milled into flour in the many mills, or moulins. Only a couple windmills survive today.
We walked here from our hotel, but first we will pass through the Pigalle section, which is where the famed Moulin Rouge nightclub is located. Of course, its heyday was during the Belle Époque, those peaceful times before World War I. Today, it is only a tourist attraction.
From here, it’s uphill along the scalloped streets. We passed by Van Gogh’s residence in the 1880s, and before we knew it we were atop the hill. Once on top of the plateau, we encountered the Moulin de la Galette made famous by Renoir. There was also a small park filled with French boy scouts and a decapitated bishop.
This is a charming neighborhood with a distinct feel—its narrow streets survived Haussmann’s rebuilding of Paris in the 18th century. During the Belle Époque, the area became a Bohemian district and drew Dalí, Monet, Mondrian, Picasso, and many others. Today, it is mainly for the tourists.
Perched atop the great hill like a hood ornament is the Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Paris, or the Sacré Cœur. Construction began in 1875, but the basilica was not consecrated until after World War I. Because the sun is out today, the steps in front of the basilica are mobbed with people taking in the view of Paris below. We ventured inside, but they were in the midst of a service. So, we, and the other tourists, were quietly prodded along the interior’s perimeter.
After we had our fill of the hazy view, we ventured down the long staircase called Rue Foyatier, which is beside the funicular. There was a lot of street art, and a lot of people huffing their way up. Once we reached the bottom, we explored the park directly below the basilica, but we were accosted by people offering us a free bracelet. Hard to shake these guys, but we had a decent conversation.
Next, we’re headed for another high point in Paris.